Kerala Connections Updates

Disruption on the border

2011-12-24T07:00:00.000-08:00

There is currently a dispute between Tamil Nadu and Kerala over the condition of a dam. The Tamils are dependent on the reservoir for their water and think that the Keralites are not maintaining it properly. The result is that in some places vehicles with Kerala number/licence plates are not able to cross the border into Tamil Nadu. We are doing everything we can to ensure that our customers are able to follow the itinerary we devised for them. But please note that this may mean a slight adjustment to the tour and we ask you to take the advice of our local agents who are constantly monitoring the situation to ensure that the disruption to our customer’s holidays is kept to a minimum.

Xmas 2011 Opening Hours

2011-12-13T05:46:00.000-08:00

The Kerala Connections office will be open from 09:00 to 12:30 on Christmas Eve (ie normal Saturday hours).
We will be closed for the bank holidays (26/27 December and 2 January)
and will be available in the mornings between Christmas and New Year - 09:30 to 12:30.
It is probably best to e-mail us during this period.

However, if you need to contact us urgently then please ring the usual number and if we are not here leave a message.

If you are already in India (or on the way) and there is an emergency and we are not in the office then ring the local agent in India (we will have provided you with their contact numbers).

No Power on 6 Dec 2011

2011-12-05T03:09:00.000-08:00

Tree cutting around overhead lines means that the Kerala Connections office will be without electricity from 9am on Tuesday. We will be here - taking phone calls - but please note that we will not be able to respond to e-mails until the power has been turned back on.

Qantas Magazine article

2011-12-02T02:41:00.001-08:00

In March 2011 we arranged a trip to Kerala for Singapore based journalist Chris Wright and his 8 year old daughter Chyna Rose. Chris had been asked by Qantas (in-flight magazine - The Australian Way) to write an article about Kerala linked to the Booker Prize winning book – The God of Small Things by Arandhati Roy. The magazine is now available on all Qantas flights and the article about Kerala can be found on our Facebook page.
http://www.facebook.com/KeralaConnections?sk=wall
or on the Qantas site:

http://travelinsider.qantas.com.au/escape_to_the_waterways_of_kerala_india.htm

Australian weds American on Kerala houseboat

2011-09-27T01:25:00.000-07:00

Kerala Connections was delighted to be asked to include a wedding celebration on a houseboat as part of the honeymoon package arranged for Jerry Dohnal and Chandra Wilson. This took place on 23 September 2011 and the press turned out in full. Below is the text that appeared in THE HINDU newspaper the following day. Jerry and Chandra also featured on two Kerala news channels.

Australian Jerry Dohnal and American Chandra Tameiko Wilson during their 'Kerala' wedding on a houseboat in Alappuzha on Friday.

Wedding dreams can be of different dimensions, but few get to play it out in their own way. Australian Jerry Dohnal and his fiancé Chandra Tameiko Wilson, a United States citizen, wanted to get married in true “Kerala style” after being enchanted with what they had heard about God’s Own Country.
Though the Kerala connection was missing when they actually exchanged vows in March last, the couple did not let go of the dream and five months later, when the circumstances came together, they headed down South. With Dohnal being a legal professional in Sydney and Chandra Tameiko being an airhostess, arranging affairs through the U.K.-based Kerala Connections travel agency and Companion Holidays was not a tough issue.

And on Friday, they lived the dream, tying the knot in ‘desi’ style in a ‘mandap’ set on a houseboat, floating along the placid waters of the Pampa River at Pallathuruthy here. The wedding, conducted as per Hindu rituals and customs, was at sharp 12.30 p.m. in the presence of a select few friends.

The couple will have a daylong houseboat cruise in Alappuzha on Saturday, before heading to Kovalam for a two-day halt before flying out of the country.

Visa fees increased

2011-09-12T07:34:00.000-07:00

We have just leart that the administation costs of obtaining an Indian Visa have increased from today (12 September 2011). The total cost of a six month tourist visa is now £42.20. We do not know what may happen to applications that were in the pipeline when the rate changed. We were not given advance warning of this increase so we are sorry to be informing our customers on the actual day the increase is implemented.

Monsoon Wedding in Kerala

2011-09-08T09:41:00.000-07:00

Well it should have been a monsoon wedding in Kerala in June - but the bride and groom were lucky and the rain held off for their special days.

Aysha and her family on her wedding day
Nayana, Varghese, Ajish, Aysha, Baby and Daphne

The wedding was between Aysha the eldest daughter of Varghese (our oldest Keralite friend) and Ajish. Varghese was the man who suggested we start up a travel company to promote Kerala – so if it were not for him there would be no Kerala Connections. We first met him in 1989 and met Aysha aged 4 in 1991.

Aysha aged 4 with her sister Nayana

For a week or two most years we became part of their family. Aysha and her younger sister Nayana got to know us very well and saw us as an extra set of parents during our time there. When Aysha was 13 she came to the UK to stay with us for the two month school holidays. Some of the relations were very nervous about Varghese letting his young daughter go with ‘foreigners’ to a strange land. Now Aysha is 24 and has recently qualified as a nurse.

When we were first told of Aysha’s marriage – we were worried as only English shared parents of an India girl about to enter an arrange marriage can be. We had not met the young man in question – and what if we did not think he was good enough for our daughter? But we should not have worried – our co-parents found a lovely guy and anyway – Aysha is a sensible girl, she would not agree to a marriage if she felt it was not right. But it is hard for us British citizens to understand the arranged marriage system. We think we should fall in love first and then get married. They do it the other way round – select a suitable partner based on religion, family background, education etc, etc. If the two people and their families think it is a good match they get married and then (hopefully) fall in love.

Ajish fitted the bill perfectly – and he is also a nurse. So we are now the proud shared in-laws of Ajish and he seems to be fine with this!

Aysha looked absolutely stunning on the Engagement Day (Wednesday 22 June) and again on the Wedding Day on Sunday 26 June. Ajish looked extremely smart with suits he bought in Abu Dhabi where he works (as this kind of thing is not readily available in Kerala).

The Engagement. A thoughful moment from Ajish with his wife to be looking on fondly

Aysha about to leave for the church

Aysha with her 'two' mothers

At the end of the day - Aysha in the beautiful sari chosen by her new husband and presented to her as part of the wedding ceremony.

Birds of the fields - A wealth of “watching” experience at Coconut Lagoon

2011-04-06T04:50:00.000-07:00

Paddy fields, like forests and mangroves, attract a vibrant, seasonal bird life during the different stages of its cultivation. When the field is waterlogged after the harvesting, the little grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) and Indian coot (Fulica atra) are its visitors.

When the fields are filled with water plants such as lilies, lotus and eichornias, it has a new guest: the jacanas (both bronze-winged or Metopidius indicus and pheasant-tailed or Hydrophasianus chirurgus ). They probably have one of the most unique nicknames in the bird kingdom. Called the Jesus bird and Christbird, jacanas have elongated toes and claws that help spread its weight when moving across floating vegetation, and these water plants enable them to walk over the surface foraging their prey and offer a place to nest. The impression that they walk on water, especially when the vegetation is submerged, gives them the nickname.

Different species of ducks also like to accompany them at this time, namely the lesser whistling-duck (Dendrocygna javanica), cotton pigmy goose (Nettapus coromandelianus), garganey (Anas querquedula) and pintail duck (Anas acuta). The Whistling Duck and Cotton Pigmy Goose are residents. They like to breed on the dead coconut trees and other tree holes near the fields. It is a common sight to see the chicks swim around their parents during the post monsoon season, in the fields. The Whistling Duck or Tree Duck, as also it is known, has a wheezy, whistling “seasick, seasick”, call, uttered in flight, and roosts can be quite noisy. The migrants can be seen from October to May from different parts of the world.

They are attracted here due to the warm weather a welcome escape from the freezing European winter. All of these ducks rest and relax in the waterlogged fields in the day time and are active in the night. These summer visitors can be a bit destructive in the fields where seeds are sown. Locally, farmers of the Kuttanad area term their “attack” as “eranda veezhal”, which means the shower of ducks.

Egrets are omnipresent of the fields, but can be seen in thousands when the draining of water starts in the fields. As the fields are below water level, water has to be pumped out from the fields and this creates an easy fishing opportunity which attracts the egrets. There are various types of egrets, Large Casmerodius albu, Median Mesophoyx intermedia, Little Egretta garzetta, Western Reef Egretta gularis, and the Cattle Bubulcus ibis egrets. The sight of acres and acres of fields smeared with these white birds, and terns flying overhead can be quite awe inspiring.. Paddy fields that are a favourite haunt of the birds can provide great photo opportunities. Terns, perched on the electric lines over the fields, look like a swaying garland and make a pretty picture. All the different varieties of Terns that come to Kerala, except for the River Tern (Sterna aurantia), are migrants. Seasonal visitors include Little Tern (Sternula albifrons or Sterna albifrons), Gull billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica) and Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus).

Waders are another group of birds found here. Their preference for mud flats brings them to the fields, which are a few centimeters of water deep, at the starting stage of cultivation. The Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) is particularly partial to these mud flats. Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos), Little Ringed Plover- (Charadrius dubius) and Red Shank (Tringa tetanus) are the other waders who visit the rice fields though the water level is high. Another member in this group, the Black winged stilt (Himantopus himantopus), likes to nest on the mounds in the fields, made by the farmers with the weeds and mud.

The beginning of cultivation in the fields can be marked by the presence of mynas of various kinds. The Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) and the Jungle Myna (Acridotheres fuscus) can be seen wandering around the field at this stage of the cultivation. They eat insects, worms and larvae of many of the pests who devour the sprouts of rice. The Rosy pastor (Pastor roseus) and the Chestnut tailed starling (Sturnia malabarica), who are visitors from eastern Europe, also join the mynahs in the fields during this period. They are highly gregarious and form large flocks. The song is a typical starling mixture of squeaks and rattles, given with much wing trembling. When the rice has grown enough to develop tufts of grains, it is the turn of the parakeets to pay a visit. They convert the fields into a joyful area with their sparkling green wings and sound. There are two species, the Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri) and Plum-headed Parakeet (Psittacula cyanocephala). These birds can be seen right through the cultivation time –from when the crop changes from tender grains and begin to ripen. While the parakeets along with Spotted Munia (Lonchura punctulata), White backed Munia (Lonchura striata), Black headed Munia (Lonchura atricapilla), Baya Sparrow (Ploceus philippinus) and Streaked Weaver bird (Ploceus manyar) are quite destructive to the harvest, they also do their bit to help in controlling weeds by eating their seeds during the non-cultivating time.

The vastness spaces of the fields also attract Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus), Small Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis), Blue tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) and Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis). The electric and telephone lines that crisscross over the fields are the ideal perch for these birds. From these high vantage points, they can zoom in on prey like dragonflies and other insects. Barn Swallows (Hirundo rustica) in the thousands decorate these lines from September to May. The birds of prey like Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus), Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) and Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) can be seen while they are doing their aerial patrolling. The dead and headless coconut trunks generally double up as a dining table for these hunters.

Illusive birds like bitterns, crakes and rails use the bushes and thickets on the banks of the paddy fields. Black Bittern (Ixobrychus flavicollis), Cinnamon Bittern (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus) and Yellow Bittern (Ixobrychus sinensis) are the inhabitants of the rice fields. The Ruddy Crake (Laterallus rubber) and Baillion’s Crake (Porzana pusilla) can be seen as a flash in the thickets. If you wait on the bank silently with patience, you can see the peeping eyes of a white breasted water hen. Unfortunately in Kerala, all the paddy fields and marshes are vanishing rapidly with unscientific land reclamation and usage. People do not seem to realise that the conservation of the paddy fields, marshes and other water bodies is very necessary for the retention of water, food safety and also for the birds and millions of other creatures and hence, for our own survival. The guests enjoy the regular morning birding trip from Coconut Lagoon, due to the remaining bit of biodiversity and its conservation gives them and us a sense of joy.

Manoj P or Manu, the naturalist at Coconut Lagoon, is a good guide of birds, butterflies, dragonflies, reptiles, small mammals and wildflowers. He has published articles and photographs in several prestigious nature journals

Responsible Travel - 10 years old today

2011-04-06T04:22:00.001-07:00

ResponsibleTravel.com (of which Kerala Connections is a member) has just reached a couple of milestones - its tenth birthday and $100 million (£66 million) sales. If you would like read Simon Calder's article about it in today's Independent here is the link: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/holidays/justin-francis-i-want-to-be-a-challenger-2263428.html

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH – APRIL 2011

2011-04-04T05:52:00.000-07:00

Coconut Lagoon

This is possibly the most popular hotel in Kerala (and certainly extremely popular with our customers). Accommodation is in traditional Kerala bungalows and mansions as well as spacious private pool villas. The resort is set on the side of Vembanad Lake and access is by boat only. The hotel offers a wide range of activities (including nature walks with one of their naturalists, canoe trips, cultural events, cookery demonstrations etc) and these are posted on their notice board each day. This hotel is a CGH Earth property and has a strong eco policy.

Comments from clients this season:

“Lovely hotel”

“Could not be faulted”

"Excellent with good food and nice staff”

“Nothing to fault and the food especially the dinner buffet was superb”

“Fantastic”

“Coconut Lagoon was very special”

“Loved Coconut Lagoon with lovely gardens”

American Express

2011-03-24T08:48:00.000-07:00

We are pleased to announce that we can now take payments by American Express.

Nimmy Paul’s Meen Molee (Fish in Coconut Milk)

2011-03-16T04:59:00.001-07:00

Fish Molee is a popular dish in Central Kerala among the Syrian Christian community.

Serves 4
• 8 garlic cloves, chopped, divided
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 medium onions, sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 3 (4- to 5-inch-long) thin fresh hot green chilies, or to taste, thinly sliced, including seeds if desired
• 1 tablespoon minced peeled ginger
• 1 sprig fresh curry leaves (about 15 leaves; see cooks' note, below)
• 1 (14-oz) can unsweetened coconut milk (do not shake)
• 1 (1 1/4-lb) piece halibut fillet (3/4 inch thick)
• 1 medium tomato, sliced 1/2 inch thick
• Garnish: fried red onions; golden raisins; cashews

Method:
• Mince and mash half of garlic to a paste with 1/4 teaspoon salt, then stir together with spices.
• Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook onions, chiles, ginger, curry leaves, and remaining garlic, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in spice mixture and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.
• Meanwhile, spoon off thick cream from coconut milk (about 1/2 cup) and reserve separately from remaining coconut milk.
• Push onion mixture to edge of skillet and put fish in center, then pile onion mixture on top of fish. Add thin coconut milk and simmer, covered, shaking skillet occasionally, until fish is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter and keep warm, covered.
• Add thick coconut cream and tomato to skillet and simmer until tomato is slightly softened, about 1 minute. Season sauce with salt and spoon over fish.

Learn Kerala Cookery with Nimmy Paul

2011-03-16T04:48:00.000-07:00

While you are in Cochin why not have a cookery lesson with Nimmy Paul? Nimmy has been a professional cookery instructor for more than twenty years, and with her husband Paul been involved in “at home” hospitality for more than twelve years.

You will be taken to their delightful home in Ernakulam. Their reception room is a delightful example of a Kerala home, full of traditional furniture and interesting antiques. Nimmy and Paul belong to traditional Syrian Christian community in Kerala. In keeping with the tradition of their families they enjoy having guests and serving good food.

Nimmy will take you (and any other people also doing the course that day) into her spacious kitchen where she will demonstrate cooking a couple dishes. Discussion about the ingredients and methods is encouraged. If you would like to prepare the food yourself under the instruction of Nimmy, that is also possible but she needs to be informed in advance. Once the food is cooked everyone will sit down together to enjoy the meal.
Some of our clients praise for Nimmy:

“Very much enjoyed the experience. We liked Nimmy a lot and the food was amazing”
“I spent my 50th with the wonderful Nimmy and Paul and will write to them to thank them again”
“Gave us a superb meal - good to have her showing us how she prepared some of her dishes”

“A real treat”

Aanavilasam Luxury Plantation House

2011-03-16T03:25:00.000-07:00

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH – MARCH 2011

Aanavilasam Luxury Plantation House

This stylish property is owned by Salim Pushpanath, a well known photographer and publisher and an old friend of Kerala Connections as we have been buying his photographs for use in our brochures and websites for many years. It has two suites in the main building and two pool villas, and the guest rooms offer spacious accommodation. The property is set in 7 acres of land and is a short drive from the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Salim is a perfectionist and this shows in the attention to detail that he has put into this new property. Salim is not always available but there is a delightful host (Pirkko Paxton) to welcome you and ensure that you are comfortable. Pirkko (originally from Finland) and her British husband John fell in love with Kerala on their first visit, a holiday arranged by Kerala Connections a number of years ago. The food is home cooked and cookery lessons are available on request. With advance notice photography instructions with Salim can also be arranged. Aanavilasam is a relatively new property but it is already a firm favourite with our customers and on Trip Advisor.

Comments from clients that have stayed recently:

“Outstanding in every way and Pirkko went out of her way to make sure we made the most of our stay. The chef, Krishna provided us with amazing meals. We felt very well looked after – house guests rather than visitors”

“Best rooms - spacious, well furnished and spotlessly clean. Best shower in India”

“Perfect – no other words for it – everything perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

“Pirkko went out of her way to make it an exceptional stay.”

“We really enjoyed this place and became very friendly with Pirkko and John”

Facebook & Twitter

2011-03-15T10:05:00.000-07:00

Kerala Connections is now on Facebook and Twitter.

Xmas 2010 Opening Hours

2010-12-24T03:30:00.000-08:00

Our opening hours over the Xmas/New Year period are as follows:
24 December - open 09:00 to 12:30
25 December - closed
26 December - closed
27 December - closed
28 December - closed
29 December - open 09:00 to 12:30
30 December - open 09:00 to 12:30
31 December - open 09:00 to 12:30
01 January - closed
02 January - closed
03 January - closed
04 January - 09:00 to 17:30 as usual

If you are a customer and still in the UK and need urgent help then please telephone this office and leave a message on the answerphone as this is regularly monitored. If you are in India then the first person to contact is the local agent who is looking after you (you will find their contact details on your Tour Information document). If the problem is something that they need our help on, then they will contact us as they have our out of hours contact numbers.

Sunday Telegraph Article

2010-12-23T01:40:00.000-08:00

Article by Teresa Levonia Cole

We are often frustrated when reading articles about Kerala as very often some of the facts are misleading if not wrong. So we were very pleased to read this one by Teresa Levonia Cole that we found to be very well written, interesting and factually correct. It appeared in the Telegraph in November and can still be found on their website – link below:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/india/8162428/India-The-key-to-Kerala.html

All the hotels she mentions in the text are properties we promote and highly recommend – so if you would like to duplicate her trip please let us know.

Our Homestay Tour is No.1

2010-12-17T04:32:00.001-08:00

We were delighted to find that Responsible Travel selected our Kerala Homestay Tour as the first holiday on their Top 5 Hot Picks for 2011.

http://e.responsibletravel.com/rsps/wlnk/c/1046/r/194410/e/4016

Indian Visas

2010-12-14T06:51:00.001-08:00

The visa process is constantly adjusted in order to try and improve the service. We supply all our customers with information to help them through the process – but we also strongly advise you to check the VSF Global website before you begin the process in case there have been any changes made since we sent the information.

Recently there have been two major changes to the system that applicants need to be aware of:

From 23 November 2010 all applications must be completed on-line. Up to that date handwritten application forms were sometimes accepted – but no longer. This means that if you are unable or unwilling to complete your application on-line yourself you will need to employ a Visa Agency to do it for you.

From 6 December 2010 the standard UK passport sized photograph will no longer be accepted. The colour photographs you supply must be square - 50mm x 50mm or 2 inches x 2 inches.

Extreme Fishing with Robson Green

2010-12-14T06:45:00.000-08:00

Episode 10 of the latest series (3) of this Chanel Five programme (shown on 6 December 2010) featured Kerala and the Maldives. Kerala Connections was responsible for arranging the accommodation and transfers in Kerala for Robson Green, the production and film crew. In Cochin they stayed at the Tea Bungalow Hotel in Fort Cochin. This hotel had not been open very long at the time of their visit. They really enjoyed their time at this small heritage hotel and Robson said that he would like to return there with his family for a holiday. The houseboats (three houseboats were used) were owned by Lakes and Lagoons. The visit to a resort to participate in Kalaripayattu (which we also organised) was Coconut Lagoon at Kumarakom. It was unfortunate that in Kerala he only “caught tiddlers” but I am pleased to report that there were no complaints about our services and organisation.

Kerala Travel Mart

2010-10-20T08:12:00.000-07:00

Blog from Diana Syrett – MD of Kerala Connections – October 2010

I recently returned from a three week trip to Kerala in order to attend the Kerala Travel Mart (KTM) and while in the area - do a Familiarisation Trip (FAM). I had not visited Kerala for some time so there were a number of new hotels that I had not yet visited. There were also a lot of old friends to catch up with.

Kerala Connections has attended every one of these biennial events since the first in 2000. It is a useful show for us as it enables us to see a lot of our associates in a short space of time and it also enables us to learn about new activities. The KTM started on the Thursday with a fantastic cultural show followed by dinner. During that first evening it started to rain – but none of us took much notice as rain at night during September is not unusual. However, the rain continued to fall throughout the night and became heavier. In the morning when I looked out of the window of Tissa’s Inn (the delightful hotel in Fort Cochin that I was staying at) I saw that the next door neighbour’s compound was completely under water. It looked a bit like a house emerging from a river. At breakfast we discovered that there was a major flooding problem across Cochin, roads were closed and six refuge centres had been set up during the night for people whose homes had been flooded. The KTM organisers really had a difficult job – it is hard enough arranging such a large event at a new venue – but coping with additional complications of torrential rain as well!! But they did a sterling job, and all went well.

Following the KTM I made my decisions regarding where I needed to go and which properties I wanted to see and an itinerary was devised. I spent two nights at one hotel (an opportunity to get some washing done) but other than that I spend one night at each place and visited as many other hotels as I could while at each destination. Altogether I visited around 70 properties. I will not tell you about all of them – some we already use and will continue to recommend, others were not suitable for our customers. But a few are worth a mention and these are below:

Nattika Beach Resort
This is a new resort right on the beach in Thrissur district. It is 1.5 to 2 hrs from Cochin Airport so just as convenient as Mararikulam. As the resorts at Marari are often full this makes a good alternative. The first impressions were good and the welcome warm. The rooms are all villas and the Deluxe and Super Deluxe are perfect for our customers. The beach is immediately in front of the property and the new swimming pool was almost finished. The food we had here was possibly the best meal on the trip.

Fort Cochin Boutique Hotels
So many hotels have opened here that we are now spoil for choice. Those I particularly liked included: Tissa’s Inn where I stayed is extremely comfortable with a very high quality finish and service considering the cost – very good value for money and with a swimming pool too! Tea Bungalow, used a lot last season with fantastic feedback from our customers (including Robson Green who stayed here during the filming of his last series of Extreme Fishing). The Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel – rather a long name for a great hotel. Lovely rooms, a fantastic position overlooking the sea and a decent garden with swimming pool.

Marari Villas
This is a new place and is currently just two serviced villas – but more are on the way. It is owned and run (very hands on) by Rupert (the architect) and his wife Olga (the wonderful hostess). This place is perfect for Kerala Connections customers who, at the end of a tour want to do nothing but relax, read and be pampered. It is a similar model to Beach Symphony, which is often full, so I’m sure we will be using the Marari Villas a lot. They will be added to our website soon.

Houseboat and Backwaters
Most of our customers have at least one night on a houseboat if they are visiting Kerala so it is always good to keep an eye on the other houseboat operators to see what they are offering. At the KTM a number of houseboats were lined up for inspection. Most of them were huge, glitzy ‘gin palaces’ and not to my taste at all. Only two, dwarfed by the others, looked authentic – The CGH Earth Spice Coast Cruises boat and the Lakes and Lagoons boat (both of which we use). Lakes and Lagoons sent one of their premium boats. The premium boats cost a little more but most people think they are worth it. One has an upper viewing deck and another provides AC dining (and it was this one that they supplied me). The last time I saw this boat it was still being built and I was not at all sure about the concept. However, I was completely won over after staying on it. Anyone who has stayed on a houseboat will know the insects at dusk can be a real nuisance. The normal practice is to sit in the dark waiting for all the bugs to settle for the night – hopefully, elsewhere. If you try to eat your dinner at this time you can not be sure that you are not eating the odd insect! Not good particularly if, like me, you are vegetarian. But on this boat you can retreat to the air-conditioned comfort of the dinning room and play cards in the light until your dinner is ready.

I used the houseboat as my vehicle to visit hotels along the backwaters. Casa Del Fauno we have used for many years and it has been popular with our clients. Recently it was taken over by the Malabar House group. It has now become a ‘Malabar Escape’ and been renamed Purity. Major renovations were taking place but two rooms were almost finished so I could see the end result – and it is even better than before. Add to this the excellent management, superb food and spa treatments to be offered I’m sure that this property will become even more popular. Malabar House already own Privacy a little further along the same stretch of water. With the option of Purity nearby it has been decided to make Privacy even more exclusive. The two room villa will be turned into a villa suite – making this a two villa property.

Kadambavanam
This place is across the border in Tamil Nadu, a short distance from the temple town of Madurai. It is a cultural centre offering people a unique opportunity to understand the Tamil culture (said to be one of the oldest in the world). There is a huge (500 seat) auditorium – the plan was to put on a cultural show every evening, followed by an authentic Tamil dinner. However, until they have built their reputation and been discovered by more companies (as far as I know we are the only UK tour operator currently marketing Kadambavanam) they are putting on a show at the weekends only. Alongside the cultural centre they have a resort – but you don’t have to stay here to attend the cultural event. I stayed (for two nights) at the resort and was delighted by it. The small and reasonably priced rooms are well designed and delightful with beautiful silk curtains and cushions, comfortable beds, flat screen TV with Sky and really good bathrooms. The restaurant was still being built so my food came from the cultural centre kitchens and was eaten on the veranda – but the restaurant, kitchens and bar will be finished soon. On the second morning I got up early and went for a walk through the local village and up one of the hills behind. It was a truly ‘Indian’ experience seeing the villagers go about their daily lives – we met a man off to cut his grass, machete in hand and a bottle of water balanced on his head; we passed a man coming back from doing his ablutions who I was told was completely blind – but knew his village and the paths surrounding it so well that he moved around without any assistance; an elderly lady carrying large baskets on her head and rather bemused why a foreigner would want to photograph her; another lady was sitting on the ground in the courtyard of her house preparing breakfast.

Aanavilasam
Back on the Kerala side of the border I visited Aanavilasam for the first time. We have been using this property since it first opened last year and it as been extremely popular with our customers. Again this is a place that does not seem to have been discovered by other tour operators – but with only two rooms (and two more on the way) we are pleased as it does mean that we get rooms for our customers when needed. The owner Salim is an old friend of ours and, coincidently, the hostess (Pirkko, a Finnish lady) first visited Kerala with Kerala Connections. So visiting Aanavilasam was like staying with friends. The two rooms in the main building are extremely comfortable and the two new rooms (almost finished and a short walk) will be slightly smaller but with a steam room and plunge pool.

Mannaas Veedu
This is another property that we have been marketing for some time but I had not yet had the opportunity to visit. It is an attractive building, serving delicious home cooked food and in a position that offers a useful journey break, well away from the main tourist areas. However, what I had not grasped was that the real USP of this place is the nearby Parthasarathi Temple. In Kerala non-Hindus are not normally allowed in the temples, in fact foreigners are often stopped on the steps of the one in Trivandrum before they can ‘contaminate’ it. But the Krishna temple at Aranmula welcomes all so it is a real opportunity to see inside a Kerala Temple. I always enjoy the temple experience, particularly those that I call ‘working temples’ as opposed to the ‘historic’ ones that are looked after by the Indian Archaeological Department and visited by tourists. I watched a baby take its first solid meal; a man washing in the Pamba River before praying to his god; a group of elderly ladies waiting for something (I know not what); one elderly man reading to another from a large book. I was amused by the pujari, bare chested and dressed in mundu only – texting. Only in India do you get such wonderful juxtapositions.

Fragrant Nature
This hotel has fairly recently changed hands and the new owners have added more rooms as well as improved the lobby, restaurant and swimming pool. My time here was rather dominated by the weather conditions. It was dry in Tamil Nadu but most of my days in Kerala included some rain. By the time I arrived at Kollam it was getting really heavy again. Fragrant Nature is a lakeside property but the level of the lake was so high that most of the paths were now under the lake and water was lapping against the sides of the spa.

I completed my FAM tour in the Trivandrum area. I visited a number of hotels in the area – the recently re-opened and completely renovated Surya Samudra is looking fantastic; the Turtle on the Beach (my first visit) was lovely; Bethsaida now has a further 32 new rooms; the Gateway Hotel at Varkala (Taj) is being renovated and the new rooms are great; there are some new hotels in Trivandrum too (ideal for early arrivals/departures).

All in all a very useful trip - being in Kerala is of course very special for me. My activities were somewhat hampered by the rain which was a nuisance, but worse was for the poor customers who were there at that time. I met some during my travels and they were stoic about the weather – but it really was unusual to have rain that heavy at that time of year. Everyone said so, and so did the media. Many locals told me that they had never experienced such heavy rain – and that it was worse than the monsoons. I just hope that this was a ‘one off’ and the depression over Tamil Nadu that was the cause of all that misery does not become a regular event in September/October as the season in Kerala is already short.

The Golden Chariot Luxury Train

2010-05-31T00:13:00.000-07:00

In March 2010 Gary Tree, Sales Consultant at Kerala Connections, had the opportunity to travel on the Golden Chariot Luxury Train as part of his recent FAM (familiarisation) trip. The route included Bangalore, Mysore, Nagarhole, Hassan, Hampi, Bijapur, Badami and Goa.

Luxury trains cater for visitors only (not commuters) and offer routes that take you to places of tourist interest. At each destination vehicles (usually coaches) are laid on to take you from the train to the tourist attractions. Guests have their own en-suite cabin within the train and there is a restaurant, bar, lounge and usually a spa/gym on board. Effectively your hotel moves with you, which enables you to see a lot of places in a short space of time without the need of tiring car journeys or a lot of packing and unpacking.

The Golden Chariot recently introduced a new itinerary - the Southern Splendours which also starts and finishes in Bangalore and completes a circular loop to the south including Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Tanjore, Madurai, Kovalam, the Kerala backwaters and Cochin. This trip alternates with the Karnataka and Goa trip that Gary went on. For full details and departure dates please contact us.

Below is Gary’s diary about his trip. If you are interested to know more please ring Gary on 01892 722440 to discuss.

Diana Syrett

Managing Director

Kerala Connections Ltd

Gary's Diary

DAY 1

Traffic! That was my first impression of Bangalore. The taxi driver brilliantly negotiated the congested streets - weaving between buses, taxis and motorbikes. Finally, we arrived at an oasis of serenity – The Leela. This is a stunning property - what a hotel to start the trip from! Everything about the Leela is a “wow” - elegant corridors, lush gardens, stylish eateries and even a Hugo Boss shop (if only I had an endless supply of rupees!) After a very quick and efficient check-in, lunch was served in Jamavar, the hotel’s open air restaurant. Here, a delicious three course meal was served which provided much needed energy for the upcoming afternoon of sightseeing, and venturing back into the traffic!

The next five hours consisted of visiting Bangalore's ‘highlights’, and I have to say Tipu's Palace, Bull Temple and Lalbagh botanical gardens didn't seem to ignite the group’s excitement. The worst traffic congestion I have seen in India made the day drag, and forty five minutes in a sari emporium didn't help.

The twenty of us finally arrived at Yeshwanthpur Station at around eight pm. We headed to the busy platform, where we were taken to a waiting room. After a drink and being joined by the remaining passengers (the lucky ones who had decided against the Bangalore “traffic tour”), we headed to our coaches. Background music was provided by Indian musicians, and many Bangalore residents stood on the platform watching with interest. My coach attendant Satish was waiting by my coach (named Rashtrakuta) to show me to cabin 'D'.

It was very contained but comfortable, like a cabin on a cruise ship. As with any small room it lacks much luggage space; as I am on my own I can use the other bed to lay things out, but for a couple it would be quite cosy! The bathroom is also fine, with sufficient space and a nice shower. After freshening up and donning my 'smart clothes' I headed to the bar for a well earned G+T. Under normal circumstances, it would be a nice area to break the ice with fellow passengers, but as we had a film crew recording our every sip, it was a little disconcerting!!

The train departed from Bangalore at nine, and shortly after we set off I headed to the restaurant car. The meal was lovely, another multi-course event. The head chef visited us to check that everything was satisfactory, and advised that there is always a Continental alternative. The food is all cooked on board and the dishes are never repeated on the journey. By the time I finished my last mouthful of cheesecake it was not far off eleven, and my heavy eyelids prompted me to head back to my cabin! Shortly after, the rocking sensation stopped as the train arrived at Mysore, and at that point my head hit the pillow...

DAY 2

Day two started with a tannoy announcement at 8am of the day's itinerary shortly followed by a knock on the door by Satish with my newspaper and tea – could get used to this!!

After breakfast we met on the platform at 09:50. I thought I was going to be an extra in a Bollywood movie as there were lots of cameras on the platform; alas they were only shooting a promotional video for the Golden Chariot and didn't require my services!

We travelled the short distance to Mysore Palace. I have to say the Indians have no idea about queuing - unlike us well-behaved tourists who merrily stood in line at the camera counter (as cameras are not allowed into the palace), the Indians just push to the front. Right! From now on, “when in India.....” The palace is beautiful, with many stunning rooms and historic artefacts.

After battling through the throngs of locals selling bracelets, fans and musical instruments, we got back on the coach for our trip to Kabini. The two hour scenic drive takes in farmers ploughing the fields, banana plantations, paddy fields and colourful villages. On arrival at Kabini River Lodge we were shown to our rooms, which were a nice size. The property was a former hunting lodge belonging to the Maharaja of Mysore, and has retained the feeling of a bygone era. A buffet lunch was served in the open air restaurant, and you cannot believe my excitement when I spotted chips! Don't get me wrong I love South Indian food, but some good old chips are a welcome sight (and they tasted sooooo good!)

Then it was time for tiger spotting. When it comes to spotting the elusive king of the Indian jungle, I feel I am a jinx – if you see me coming towards your jeep refuse to let me on or change vehicles! I have been on six game drives with exactly nil sightings, and also whenever I am in a sanctuary it starts to rain! So yes you have guessed the outcome of the safari – no tigers but we did have some refreshing rain. In all honesty the safari was great and we were lucky enough to spot elephants, gaur, monkeys, spotted and sambar deer, peacocks, wild boar and a mongoose. On our return we were greeted by a friendly chap who served up a welcome cup of chai out on our terrace; however this had to be drunk quickly as we were soon joined by mosquitoes in the twilight!

Before dinner we had the option of watching a documentary about Kabini. This turned out to be very informative, but was not easy to hear with the domestic tourists’ children squawking and running around the film room with the camera flash going off....honestly! Spent a lovely evening at the Ghol Ghar restaurant getting to know my fellow Charioteers, who varied from a couple from Kent, two couples from Canada, a French family and a really interesting lady who is travelling around India on 80 trains (http://www.80trains.com/). Early to bed ready for a six o'clock start for a boat safari.

DAY 4

I awoke at six with the sensation of moving, and then realised that we had started our journey to Hassan. My huge amount of mosquito spray must have repulsed my cabin companion, as I had no irritating bites, thankfully!

At seven Satish brought my paper and morning tea. What a great way to start the day, sitting in bed with tea watching the Karnataka countryside whiz past the window. My start to the day could have been extremely embarrassing as in my sleepy state (not a morning person at all) I had not closed my sliding door properly. As I was happily laying on my bed the door slid open just as an Indian family walked past, thankfully I had put on the complimentary Golden Chariot dressing gown – phew, or I would have not been able to show my face at breakfast!

After what seemed a very hectic breakfast, we left the train and headed through the incredibly busy train station – a fantastic opportunity to be right in the centre of the hustle and bustle of people travelling.

Today's first stop was Shravanabelagola, after a forty five minute drive through farmland and villages. It is a colossal monolith at the top of over six hundred steps. It is a steep climb but well worth the effort (palanquins are available for those that need assistance, that's if the carriers are not on strike as they were today!). At the summit it is fascinating watching the colourfully dressed pilgrims coming here for blessings and worshiping the statues’ feet.

I always find coming down worse, don't you? After reclaiming our shoes, which I had removed according to the local custom (make sure you have socks as the rocks are hot!) and battling through the persistent postcard sellers we headed back to the coach which took us to the train for lunch. I have to say, every meal on the train has been excellent.

The turnaround time was limited and soon we were off for our afternoon session. We visited the temples of Belur & Halebid. These temples have amazing carvings and it is impossible not to be overwhelmed by the craftsmanship. At Halebid I decided to take some time out from ‘templing’ and wandered into the market town. It was fascinating to watch the jewellery sellers with their children. The thing about India I love is the people – so many smiling faces – and as they didn't hassle me here to buy anything, I bought some necklaces from the smiley lady!

Before dinner the ladies could get some Henna done, some went a bit overboard on their hands and had to wait for it to dry for a few hours which made eating dinner interesting! The train departed Hassan at eight, so we had our first experience of travelling through the night! I have to say this bit of track seems a bit bumpy, let’s see how sleep goes - or not as the case may be!

DAY 5

I'm so tired, got some sleep but woken by so many jolts and rattling. Not ideal preparation for a full on day of sightseeing in Hampi. Lots of coffee consumed this morning, but didn't loiter too long in the restaurant as the piped Richard Clayderman music was driving me mad.

The journey to Hampi took forty five minutes. This seems to be the average transfer time to all the sites we visit. I was surprised how green this area is. I later discovered that it is due to a dam and there are also quite a few canals in the region. Hampi really needs a few days to explore due to its size and amount of historical interest. Our condensed taster started with a small exploration of the slopes of Hemakuta Hill before we descended the rocky hillside to the Virupaksha temple. By this time a few of us decided to go AWOL and explore the vibrant and colourful market outside the archway. It was full of incense and trinket sellers and it was a great place to people watch.

Next came the lovely area which included the Lotus Palace and Elephant Stables. The heat was intense today and many members of the group began to wilt, eventually taking shelter under the purple Golden Chariot umbrellas!

The 'proper' Golden Chariot guests headed back for lunch and four hours of free time. Unfortunately, this wasn't an option for me and I had to go and look at hotels. All I will say about my four hour adventure is gridlock traffic hell, three hours in a taxi with no air-con, my water running out and finally having to walk forty five minutes in the searing heat. Like water off a duck's back for a tour operator....

….my taxi finally arrived back at Hospet station, where the afternoon sightseeing coach full of guests was ready to depart. Dehydrated, hot and probably not smelling my best I jumped on the coach.

We headed to the stunning Vittala temple which at dusk was atmospheric and a lovely place to spend time. When the sun goes down the temple is illuminated, but not before a guard makes music by banging the pillars!!

Back to the train where there was a cookery demonstration on the platform and then live music in the bar. After an interesting and exhausting day I did not last very long...

DAY 6

My sleep was ended by a jolt and a loud hoot at 04:15. At seven my cuppa arrived and I took my first malaria tablet ready for Goa; I am hoping that I do not get the side effects that are explained on the packet. Start to feel a bit groggy straight away! I am hoping that is due to the combination of lack of food and water yesterday and a tad too much sun (apparently it reached nearly 40 degrees.)

I am such a creature of habit; the waiting staff delivered my breakfast order - muesli and fruit - without me saying a word.

Monkeys were on the platform at Badami to greet us, they look so sweet and inquisitive – but the waiters at breakfast had forewarned us that they are monsters!

After giving the monkeys a wide berth our first visit was the fantastic Pattadakal complex. The carvings were once again amazing, and we were followed around the whole temple by two local children who were constantly smiling and enjoying the attention and photograph taking. Other things that made this complex so interesting were a bat colony in one of the dark temple alcoves, and the villagers getting their water from the local well.

We then drove through cultivated farmland and fascinating villages to Badami Caves. The caves are amazing, and the resident monkeys are great entertainment but take heed of the brilliant sign “Beware of Monkey Menace” - I saw one steal a bottle of water from a visitor and take it up the cliff face and open it! The view from the tiered cave complex is stunning, overlooking a lake where the locals are washing clothes and bathing.

We headed back to the train for one o'clock, where all the coach assistants were dressed in traditional Karnataka dress. The rest of the afternoon was at leisure. You can take advantage of the free time to get a massage, use the gym or just relax in your room watching the sunflower fields, bullock carts and small stations pass by outside. It was a lovely evening spent with many of the new friends made on the trip, and for some it was their last supper as they were getting off the Chariot at Goa.

Day 7

A leisurely start to the day with a ten o'clock departure, but as soon as we left the train's air conditioning, we could feel Goa's humidity. There was a slight delay with our coaches’ arrival, but this gave us some time to explore the nearby fish and vegetable market. Today's itinerary consisted of visiting two of Old Goa’s churches, the obligatory shop trip before getting to Majorda Beach Resort for our lunch and afternoon stop. We had several hours to relax by the pool or head to the beach, and my few hours consisted of a refreshing swim followed by some hammock time. By this stage our group had diminished as around eighty percent of the passengers got off in Goa.

We headed back to the train and it seemed strangely quiet in the restaurant car for our last meal – more than made up for by the chef’s delicious king prawns. However, today's extreme heat and malaria tablet side effects seemed to be getting the better of everyone and it was more muted than usual. The trip back to Bangalore is overnight, so I am hoping the train’s motion and rattling combined with the strange Malaria-tablet-induced dreams do not interrupt my sleep...

Day 8

...sleep was quite good actually! Had my last cuppa in bed, and then joined the other guests in the breakfast car for our final breakfast and goodbyes with the waiting staff. We arrived back in Bangalore at 11.00 and Satish collected my bags and escorted me to where my driver was waiting. All of the staff lined up next to the train for a lovely send off and after exchanging addresses and cards with my fellow Charioteers my wonderful week’s adventure came to end.

I loved my time on the Golden Chariot. The combination of great food, immaculate and friendly service, comfortable surroundings and awe inspiring sights made this a memorable experience. If you’re short of time and want to visit the highlights of Karnataka, this is the perfect way to do it!